'TWELFTH NIGHT' - Jeff Recommended

Twelfth Night opened last weekend at First Folio Theatre in Oak Brook, IL.

Director Michael Goldberg set the production during the British Raj in India. I was really excited to design costumes for this concept. It was very similar to a design concept I developed for a college paper-project in 2005. (I set A Midsummer Night's Dream in 18th century India - the "human" world was the insulated/isolated British government and the "fairy" world was the real world of India outside the government buildings.)

I took costume inspiration from historical research ranging between 1880-1900 for my designs of Twelfth Night. I used a range of years because I felt that strict historical accuracy was far less important that creating the right mood for each character for this production. This range allowed me to use the garment details, silhouettes, and styles that fit each individual character and scene; and that flexibility lent a lot to the design.

Duke Orsino costume sketch

I was very careful to be culturally sensitive while designing and creating these costumes. This sensitivity began with using accurate historical research to backup each design choice, seeking out individuals with personal experience wrapping and wearing saris in a variety of styles, and drafting many patterns used for most of the garments worn on stage for the production.

I also used the two cultures' clothing styles to further the story of the play and give some extra depth to the characters. The most noticeable example of this is my design for Olivia's costumes. Her first costume was a very traditional English mourning gown - high collar, stiffly buttoned up, in the deep purple color of 'Western' mourning. As she falls in love with an Indian, Cesario, and comes out of mourning, she begins to wear clothing that is less rigorously British and hints at Indian style until she has completely melded the two styles into one ensemble.

Olivia costume sketch - her final look

Twins Sebastian and Viola (dresses as 'Cesario') with Olivia and Orsino

Here are some reviews of the production:

Colonial India is the Setting for a Skilled and Sensitive 'Twelfth Night' by Kerry Reid for the Chicago Tribune:

"Keller's Olivia moves from constricted Victorian mourner to a woman set free by unexpected passion, expressed by the sarilike costume she dons in the second act (Elsa Hiltner's threads are a highlight)..."

A Few Flaws Mar Bard's Playful 'Twelfth Night,' by Barbara Vitello for the Daily Herald:

"It's a pretty, pleasant production and the credit rests in part with Goldberg and First Folio's talented artistic team."
"...the setting does showcase the most ethnically diverse cast I've seen on this Oak Brook stage, as well as Elsa Hiltner's comely period costumes. "

'Twelfth Night' by Joe Stead for SteadStyle Chicago:

"...exotic and colorful costumes by Elsa Hiltner..."

Review: 'Twelfth Night'/First Folio, by Oliver Sava for Chicago Theater Blog:

"From a design perspective, Twelfth Night is spectacular, with the Eastern-inspired costumes and sets creating a beautiful environment for Shakespeare’s comedy to unfold in. "

Review: 'Twelfth Night'/First Folio, by Dennis Polkow for NewCity Stage

'Twelfth Night' by Keith Griffith for The Chicago Reader

Special thanks to my incredibly helpful assistants Jessica Trier and Page Domikaitis!

Production photos thanks to David Rice.